Re: dr.202 go get one
Posted: Sat Jul 05, 2014 11:49 pm
thanks ella your BOSS.
my bad, i went to ebay to complain, then read the description, turns out he explained but i forgot to read the details . so the deal was legit,
so I took it apart, be carefull . the wheel, is connected from 1 board to the other, it kinda snaps together with the metal teeth that you have to bend to seperate the boards to get to the pads.
pretty simple, 2 sets of screws,
1 for the bottom to take off the plastic case,
1 to get the main board out of the plastic. , unplug the data cables and screen cable carefully , unscrew the main board, oh yea make sure the knobs and wheel are removed, be really carefull there is a copper sheild that might tear, because it soldered to the 2 boards sp flip it over and unscrew the last screw.
pad fix with aluminum tape trick.
First attempt SUCCESSFULL !!
The membrane pads have what looks like a graphite or other conductor stamped on the rubber pads, it appears when this conductor wears off the pads the pads become bunk. so I took a little tiny peice of aluminum furnace tape and folded it so the contact part had no sticky on it, it is a little tricky, and real ghetto fix, because im not shure how long the glue will hold to the pad. so im going to research more and find out where to get that magic conductor stuff .
So for the first repair attempt, I only fixed 1 button.
reminded me alot of the inside of a roland MS-1 , and you should be reall carefull because you have to pretty much break it to get it open. (datawheel connected to boards with teeth. )
so I will only open it again next time to fix the whole thing with the right memnrane conductor stuff . anyway, i shoulda took pictures, but I managed to fix the worst pad, and now its the best pad. only 1 side of the pad tho.
my bad, i went to ebay to complain, then read the description, turns out he explained but i forgot to read the details . so the deal was legit,
so I took it apart, be carefull . the wheel, is connected from 1 board to the other, it kinda snaps together with the metal teeth that you have to bend to seperate the boards to get to the pads.
pretty simple, 2 sets of screws,
1 for the bottom to take off the plastic case,
1 to get the main board out of the plastic. , unplug the data cables and screen cable carefully , unscrew the main board, oh yea make sure the knobs and wheel are removed, be really carefull there is a copper sheild that might tear, because it soldered to the 2 boards sp flip it over and unscrew the last screw.
pad fix with aluminum tape trick.
First attempt SUCCESSFULL !!
The membrane pads have what looks like a graphite or other conductor stamped on the rubber pads, it appears when this conductor wears off the pads the pads become bunk. so I took a little tiny peice of aluminum furnace tape and folded it so the contact part had no sticky on it, it is a little tricky, and real ghetto fix, because im not shure how long the glue will hold to the pad. so im going to research more and find out where to get that magic conductor stuff .
So for the first repair attempt, I only fixed 1 button.
reminded me alot of the inside of a roland MS-1 , and you should be reall carefull because you have to pretty much break it to get it open. (datawheel connected to boards with teeth. )
so I will only open it again next time to fix the whole thing with the right memnrane conductor stuff . anyway, i shoulda took pictures, but I managed to fix the worst pad, and now its the best pad. only 1 side of the pad tho.